Day 3

Here are the day 3 notes from Zach.

Today felt like a late start, even though I was down for breakfast 30 min earlier than yesterday. Mike knocked on the door, not wanting the ladies downstairs to have cooked our breakfast on time, only to have a bunch of slackers try and sleep in late.
Devin got up early to make his way to old town for the morning light and shadows they provide. He had called for a taxi at 7 am but gave up after an hour and walked to Calle 23 at the end of our street to hail one for himself. We woke Scott and had our percolated coffee and steamed milk from the pot that can't be poured without making a huge mess. We decided to forgo the van and guide for the day and walk most places on our own. We started at the Capitol, cigar factory (we did not do the tour at $10/person & no photography allowed)
We found a small square where all the old American cars are parked and started our way towards Chinatown.
With the exception of one street, I'd guess that most of Chinatown looks exactly as the rest of Havana. We found the museum of the revolution and toured the outdoor portion. A large portion is devoted to the events leading up to the bay of pigs and it's failure. One display claims to have an engine from a U2 spy plane shot down over Cuba. I don't recall hearing of this before and am anxious to read up on the history. 
Lunch was back to the place from last night, Los amigos. We each ordered the same dish as dinner before. Tired, hot, sweaty and full, we made one more stop; a trip up the elevator in a hotel with an observation deck on the 33rd floor. Here, the windows open up and provide a 360 degree view of the city, including the American interest building and the plaza that Castro built in front with black flags to block the view from inside. After a cafe con leche, we came back to our house for a re-charge. Mike and Devin crashed for a while and Scott and I read and got pedicures ($2) from Suri, one of the ladies in the house. 
We hailed a cab for Havana Libre so Mike could try to check email (failed) and make a very expensive call home. Scott and I stayed in the cab and went to get Mauricio. Out cab driver claimed to get lost and took us right by the American embassy in front of some Cuban guards (ostensibly to keep Cubans from trying to talk to members of the US envoy). Eventually we made it back to Mike and Devon and headed to a bar where we had a few drinks with Changuito, a Cuban and perhaps the best percussionist in the world. Mauricio and Scott know him well and we spent a couple of hours there before going to La Zorra El Cuervo, a jazz club just up the road. This was perhaps the best night club experience that I've ever experienced, Havana has an amazing nightlife! Once again, I'm struck by the friendly people and the almost total lack of hassle in walking the streets, even well after midnight!

Propaganda Battles

Here is a picture taken from a high rise apartment building called the Focsa? with a top floor cafe (great con leche). I thought the story of why the US building in Havana has a flag pole barricade might be interesting. Here is a snippet from Wikipidea.

Propaganda battles

The "Mount of Flags" in "Anti-Imperialism Park" which obscure the US interest section's electronic billboard
A billboard seen facing the US Interests Section in Feb. 2007, showing George W. Bush as "The Assassin".USINT has long been a focus for propaganda between Cuba and the US. In the late 1990s, this was little more than a billboard facing USINT with a cartoon revolutionary shouting to Uncle Sam "Señores Imperialistas ¡No les tenemos absolutamente ningun miedo!" - "Messrs Imperialists. We have absolutely no fear of you!" In 2005 that billboard was repositioned to a nearby site - now facing across the sea to Florida.[6]

During the Elián González case, the area to the east of USINT (previously a grassed area containing the above-mentioned billboard) was paved and a stage was built. It is known as the Permanent Anti-Imperialist Forum in Cuba. Whilst originally used for rallies and protest meeting (particularly those protesting against actions by the US government), this stage has also been used for concerts, such as Audioslave's concert released on their album Live in Cuba.

The grounds of the USINT annually feature a Christmas display - including a Santa Claus, a Frosty the snowman and a sleigh. In 2004, the display also included a large number "75".[7] This was in reference to the jailed dissidents (see above). The Cuban government, in response to Section Chief James Cason's refusal to remove the sign, placed several large billboards facing the building, carrying images of the abuse in Abu Ghraib and references to Nazis.[8]

In January 2006, USINT began displaying messages on a scrolling "electronic billboard" in the windows of their top floor. Messages include the George Burns quotation, "How sad that all the people who would know how to run this country are driving taxis or cutting hair."[9] Following a protest march, the Cuban government erected a large number of poles, carrying black flags with single white stars, obscuring the messages. In June 2006, Granma International referred to the billboard as the systematic launching of the crudest insults of our people via the electronic billboard, which, in violation of the most elemental regulations of international law, they think they can maintain with impunity on the facade of that imperial lair.[10]

Also during 2006, the Cuban billboards began carrying images of President Bush and Luis Posada Carriles as vampires and axe-murderers.

The home of the Daiquiri - The Flordita in Havana

On our first big night out we had a heck of a time in the old part of Havana. One of the last places we ended up (there were many that night) was the Flordita. The birthplace of the Daiquiri and quite an institution. Evidently Hemingway was a big fan but it seems he found his way to many bars in Havana (who can blame him).

Needless to say the Cigar smoke was thick but the drinks were cool and the 4 piece band headlined by a classic looking lady was music to our ears as we settled in and had a great time.

to learn a little more check out this recent review

Frommer's Review


This is by far the classiest of the many Hemingway hangouts in Habana. In fact, El Floridita is so upscale, I have a hard time imagining the rugged writer really enjoying this place. It'll cost you CUC$6 for a daiquiri in "The Cradle of the Daiquiri" -- be sure to get it shaken, not blended. The bartenders' deep-red jackets blend perfectly with the plush decor. The long bar takes up a good portion of the front room. There's quieter and more formal seating in the back, although even if you land a table just off the bar, this place is never rowdy. The food here is acceptable but can't justify the hefty price tags. If you do stick around for a meal, stick to the seafood. The sautéed shrimp, which is prepared tableside, is a good bet. I recommend El Floridita mostly as a cool and refreshing place to stop for a drink in the middle of a hot afternoon walking around Old Havana.

Havana Day 2

Day 2
Today I slept until 8:30. We were supposed to have breakfast at that time, but when I went downstairs no one else was awake. We finally figured out that the people who live in the house have a son, and his wife is who picked us up at the airport. At 10:30 our cab driver Jose and guide Nelson picked us up. First we went to Hemingway mariana. There we saw several large boats and had explained to us that the government had taken ownership of the condos within for a new medical deal with Venezuela for patient accommodations. 
Next up was a quick stop on a bridge that overlooked a canal with homes and boats, truly a great photo stop. We next drove by Castros compound and I was struck by the lack of apparent security His house is several km past the entrance. From there we went to get fuel and travel to Hemingway's home. We had a tour guide that explained the contents of the home and it's history. The home was built by a French couple and includes a nice pool. Pilar, his boat, is here at the house and is being restored. We had lunch at Dana Carmella's. A house that takes boarders and has a kitchen. The food was wonderful but a bit expensive. The fort in Havana harbor was our final destination of the day. We spent 2 hours walking the grounds and taking photos. Dinner was at Los Amigos a cheap eat and great food. I had steak uruguayan. Slices of ham with cheese in between, battered and fried. Everyone had black beans and rice as a side that was the best I've had.
From there we went to Havana vieja (Old town). The ride to old town was one to remember, a friend of Scott's (Mauricio Upmann) had joined us for dinner and we needed 2 taxis. Our drivers raced through traffic along the harbor road (Malecon), our Russian Ladas filling the cab with so much exhaust that it looked like a concert. Mike has a great photo of what it looked like from behind our smokescreen. Mauricio had never been in any of the tourist bars and was set for a bit of adventure. He commented at one point that Scott knew more about his country than he himself. We cruised several bars with bands playing and ended at La Floridita, another Hemingway hang out and the place where the Daiquiri was invented.

Havana Day 1

My buddy Zach kept a trip log so I figured why create when I can copy:

Day 1
We arrived in Havana today at 3.
By the time we cleared customs and found our bags it was 4. Devin's bag was literally the last one off the plane and the moving carousel was shut down after his rolled off.
After converting euros to CUC (convertible pesos for tourists) we were into a cab and on our way to the house we'd rented. Calle 28 between 19 and 21; número 209.
Upon arrival I realized that we would be living in a house with it's owners. While this seems strange, there were 3 generations there to greet us and welcome us into their home. We'll be here for 8 nights and the rent is $1050! We unpacked a bit and then went to the front room to have a beer and relax. We eventually joined the family on the back veranda, a beautiful tiled area outside the house with grape vines growing overhead to block the sun. It's not too hot, but feels just like Key Largo- sticky and humid. There's a minibar in each room and we each have our own bathroom.
Scott was due in at 7:30. After a couple of hours we left to get dinner and attend an opening of a photographic exposition at the university. The photographer is in his early 20's and shoots in black and white. We sat down to have dinner at the dinner attached to the Havana Libre, but after a few minutes, no one had come to take our order and out the window we could see that there was a lot going on across the street at a pizza place called Dino's pizza; the first joint that I've been to that doesn't use tomato sauce on their pizza. Devin pointed out that there were exactly 2 pieces of pineapple on each piece. We walked from the pizza joint to the exposition and after a few wrong turns we found our way. There was a crowd assembled outside the gates and once i looked up and saw Scott on the inside! He and his driver had just walked right in. About 30 min later we choose the same tactic and waltzed like we owned the joint. After a few performances by local singing groups and speeches we viewed the photographs and then left to find a drink. 
We set out to find a place to have a few beers and settled on an old Hemingway joint called Ambos Mundos. It seemed to be a nice hotel, there wasn't much going on but the bar was beautiful and there were photos of Hemingway everywhere.

Panama City

On our annual "Boys" trip this fall Zach, Devon and I went down to Panama City on our way to meet up with Scott in Havana. Devon had been down a few times before so Zach and I kicked back and let the old pro show us around. We stayed in Quarry Heights a hill overlooking the city and canal that evidently had been part of the old US military base. Great little apartment that worked out well for us with nice folks.

From there we went out and explored the city checking out the amazing skyline. There are so many sky scrapers. It really looks like Miami beach. I had long heard about all the high rise development going on but you have to see it to believe it. We found the best perspective out at a Marina looking back at the city. The marina complex had a lot of slips and many bars and eateries and was a really nice place to grab a couple of cool drinks after walking around. I even saw boats that I recongnized from Lighthouse Point in Florida. Small world if your a yachter I guess.

We also had our driver just take us around. We crossed the Bridge of the Americas and a newer bridge over the canal and did the old watch a container ship go through the canal thing. Needless to say Panama City is a pretty cosmoplitain place especially by Central American standards.

Our driver it turned out had also worked as a boat captain on Survivor Panama and a couple of the south seas seasons as well. Good guy that took good care of us.

That evening we took our drivers advice and hit a nice seafood place for dinner. The place was so fancy we actually chose to sit and eat in the bar but the food was incredible. Zach had the lobster. I got a whole crab cooked in some type of spanish tomato based sauce and Devon got a nice looking piece of Grouper.

After that we hit a couple of Casinos listened to some bands and I made a few donations to the local economy at the craps and black jack tables. The next morning we got up and hit the trail for the next leg of our trip.

Nothing like a police escort

On our recent trip to Panama and Cuba we drove from La Ceiba on the Honduran mainland up to San Pedro Sula to catch our flight the next day. At the first check point the police asked us where we were going. We said San Pedro. He asked if we could carry 2 of his guys to the prison in San Pedro since we were heading that way. We said what everyone says to police holding machine guns. No Problem!

Nothing like having a couple of armed escorts to insure no problems on the trip. We did not have to stop at any more check points. We also took the boys to lunch and of course dropped them off at the prison so they could go back to work.

Pavel and the Estonians (sounds like a bad tecno band)

My old buddy Pavel who I have known for years from when he was an intern at Mares recently visited us with a group of his friends. Pavel and his buddies all live in Estonia so I believe he is our customer from the furthest away.

Unfortunately Pavels trip was a bummer for most of it. You see Pavel is Russian but lives in Estonia his friends are Estonian so they have EU passports but Pavels is Russian. The Honduran consulate in Sweeden told Pavel he did not require any special visa but when he got to New York to come to Roatan the airline would not let him on and he was delayed a week getting a visa from the Honduran consul in New York. His friends however did get to come on down but they showed up to a horrible Norther storm blowing in and had to deal with that.

They all eventually got down and even got their diving certifications. Luckily they were typical European tourists and had planned a 2 week Holiday.

Pavel is doing quite well and it was great to see him again and meet his friends all super people. I hope to be able to return the favor and go see them all in Estonia and of course I am sure they will do thier best to stop me at the border and make sure it snows on me just to get even.

Starskey and Hutch have nothing on this police car!

On a recent shopping trip to San Pedro Sula I saw the ultimate law enforcement vehicle outside of Diunsa. This classic bug was the obviously some type of special ops vehicle for the toughest of the local police to get out and beat some ass in. I know I was very intimidated and impressed when I politely asked if I could take this quick photo.